West Sumatra (Indonesian: Sumatera Barat, abbreviated to Sumbar) is a province of Indonesia. It lies on the west coast of the island Sumatra, and borders the provinces of North Sumatra (Sumatera Utara) to the north, Riau and Jambi to the east, and Bengkulu to the southeast. It includes the Mentawai Islands off the coast. The capital of the province is Padang.
History
The history of West Sumatra is closely related to the history of the Minangkabau people. Archaeological evidence indicates that the area surrounding the Limapuluh Koto regency forms the first area inhabited by the Minangkabau. This interpretation seems to be justified as the area of the Limapuluh Koto regency covers a number of large rivers which meet at the eastern part of the Sumatran coastline. The rivers were known have provided important sailing transportation from the previous era to the end of the last century. The Minangkabau ancestors were believed to have arrived on this route. They sailed from Asia (Indo-China) via the South China Sea, crossing the Malacca Strait and later settled along the Kampar, Siak and Indragiri (or Kuantan) rivers. A portion of them lived and developed their culture and traits around the Limapuluh Koto regency.
The integration with migrants in the ensuing periods introduced cultural changes and an increase in population. Their settlement area gradually became diminished and eventually they spread to other parts of West Sumatra. A portion of them went to the Agam regency while others went to the now Tanah Datar regency. From those areas onward, further spread of the population occurred north of the Agam regency, in particular, the Lubuk Sikaping. Rao and Ophir districts. Most of them settled in the western area such as the coastline and some in the southern parts in Solok, Selayo and the surrounding areas of Muara and Sijunjung.
The history of the West Sumatra Province became more accessible at the time of the rule by Adityawarman. This ruler left considerable amount of evidence of himself, although he did not proclaim that he was the Minangkabau King. Adityawarman ruled Pagaruyung, a region believed by the Minangkabau to be the center of its culture. Adityawarman was the most important figure in Minangkabau history. Apart from introducing a government system by a ruling monarch, he also contributed significantly to the Minangkabau world. His most important contribution was the spread of Buddhism. This religion had a very strong influence in the Minangkabau life. The evidence of such influence found in West Sumatra today includes names such as Saruaso, Pariangan, Padang Barhalo, Candi, Biaro, Sumpur and Selo.
Since the death of Adityawarman in the middle of the 17th century the history of West Sumatra seems more complex. During that time, the connection of West Sumatra with the outside world, in particular, Aceh, became more intense. West Sumatra at that time was the political dominion of Aceh which also monopolized the economy of the area. Coupled with the intensive connection Islam entered into West Sumatra. The new faith eventually became fundamental to the social and cultural way of life in the region. Sheik Burhanuddin was regarded as the first preacher of Islam in West Sumatra. Prior to expanding the faith in the region, he was studying in Aceh.
The dominating influence of Aceh’s politics and economy did not make the people of West Sumatra happy. Ultimately, the growing dissatisfaction gave way to the acceptance of the Dutch although the presence of them also opened up a new chapter in the history of West Sumatra. The arrival of the Dutch in the region caused them to enter the era of colonialism in the very of essence of its meaning.
The first westerner to reach West Sumatra was the French explorer Jean Parmentier in 1529. However, the westerners who came for economic and political reasons were the Dutch. The Dutch commercial fleet was seen along the southern coast of West Sumatra between 1595 – 1598. Apart from the Dutch, other European nationalities also came to the region such as the Portuguese and the English.
Geography
West Sumatra lies in the middle of the western coast of Sumatra, and has an area of 42,297.30 km². Geographic features include plains, mountainous volcanic highlands formed by the Barisan mountain range that runs from north-west to south-east, and an offshore island archipelago called the Mentawai Islands. The West Sumatran coastline faces the Indian Ocean and stretches 375 km from North Sumatra province in the north-west to Bengkulu in the south-east. The lakes of West Sumatra include: Maninjau (99.5 km²), Singkarak (130.1 km²), Diatas (31.5 km²), Dibawah (14.0 km²), Talang (5.0 km²). The rivers of West Sumatra include: Kuranji, Anai, Ombilin, Suliki, Arau. The mountains & volcanoes of West Sumatra include: Marapi (2,891 m), Sago (2,271 m), Singgalang (2,877 m), Talakmau (2,912 m), Talang (2,572 m), Tandikat (2,438 m).
Flora and fauna
The province includes large areas of dense tropical forest, which is home to a host of species including: Rafflesia arnoldii (world’s largest flower), Sumatran Tiger, Siamang, Malayan tapir, Sumatran Serow, Rusa Deer, Malayan Sun Bear, Bornean Clouded Leopard, and many birds and butterflies.
The province includes two National Parks: Siberut National Park and Kerinci Seblat National Park, as well as a number of nature reserves: Rimbo Panti Nature Reserve, Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve, Lembah Anai Nature Reserve, Lembah Harau Nature Reserve, Bung Hatta Grand Forest Park, Beringin Sakti Nature Reserve.
Transport
The province is served by the newly-opened Minangkabau International Airport, 23 km north-west of Padang in Ketaping, Padang Pariaman regency.
Significant roads include the Trans-Sumatran Highway which runs through the province and heads north-west towards Medan and south-east towards Jakarta, the road between Padang and Bukittinggi, and the road between Bukittinggi and Pekanbaru. The provincial government plans to upgrade the later two roads over the next few years to improve traffic flows [1].
Regular bus services run between Padang and Bukittinggi, and other major cities of Sumatra. Other public transport options within the province include oplet, taxi and horse cart (bendi).
The Teluk Bayur port in Padang is the largest and busiest on the western coast of Sumatra. It is used for exporting goods from West Sumatra as well as from some areas of the neighboring provinces.
Administrative areas
West Sumatra consists of the following cities:
* Bukittinggi
* Padang
* Padang Panjang
* Pariaman
* Payakumbuh
* Sawahlunto
* Solok
While the regencies are:
* Agam – capital: Lubuk Basung
* Dharmasraya – capital: Pulau Punjung
* Mentawai Islands (Kepulauan Mentawai) – capital: Tua Pejat
* Limapuluh Koto – capital: Payakumbuh
* Padang Pariaman – capital: Pariaman
* Pasaman – capital: Lubuk Sikaping
* West Pasaman (Pasaman Barat) – capital: Simpang Empat
* South Pesisir (Pesisir Selatan) – capital: Painan
* Sawahlunto Sijunjung – capital: Muaro Sijunjung
* Solok – capital: Solok
* South Solok (Solok Selatan) – capital: Padang Aro
* Tanah Datar – capital: Batusangkar
People
The Minangkabau people inhabit the area of West Sumatra province on the island Sumatra. They are predominantly Muslim, and they have a reputation throughout Indonesia as traders. They are generally polite and welcome tourists and other travellers. One of the famous festivals is Tabuik.
Mentawaians live on the Mentawai Islands, off the western coast of Sumatra, that are also part of the province. They speak Mentawai languages, which are not intelligible with either Indonesian nor Minangkabau. Most of the Mentawais are Christians nowadays.
Sport
West Sumatra is also home of several professional soccer clubs. The most popular of them is Semen Padang, which regularly plays its matches in Agus Salim Stadium. The biggest stadium in West Sumatra
Tourism
The prime tourist attractions of West Sumatra are the natural environment, and the culture and history of the Minangkabau and Mentawai people.
Natural attractions of the mainland include the tropical forests, mountains, volcanos, lakes, valleys, rivers & waterfalls in the highlands, the fauna and flora, and the beaches around Padang. Many areas are protected as part of National Parks and Reserves.
The city of Bukittinggi is a popular central location in the highlands from which to explore the culture and history of the Minangkabau people, including architecture, crafts, dances, music and food. There are a number of museums and cultural centers.
The Mentawai Islands are a popular destination for surfers and those looking to experience the culture and more primitive lifestyle of the Mentawai people.
PADANG:
Padang (means field) is the capital and largest city of West Sumatra, Indonesia. It is located on the western coast of Sumatra at 0°57′0″S, 100°21′11″E. It has an area of 694.96 square kilometres (268.3 sq mi) and a population of over 750,000 people.
History
Since the 16th century Padang has been a trade centre. During the 16th and 17th centuries pepper was cultivated and traded with India, Portugal, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. In 1663 the city came under the authority of the Dutch. The Dutch built a trading post here in 1680. The city came under British authority twice, the first time from 1781 to 1784 during the Fourth Anglo-Dutch War, and again from 1795 to 1819 during the Napoleonic Wars. Afterwards the city was transferred back to the Netherlands. Up to approximately 1780 the most important trade product was gold, originating from the gold mines in the region. When the mines where exhausted, the emphasis turned to other products such as coffee, salts and textiles.
In 1797 Padang was inundated by a tsunami with an estimated flow depth of 5–10 meters, following an earthquake, estimated to be 8.5–8.7 Mw, which occurred off the coast. The shaking caused considerable damage and the deaths of two people, while the tsunami resulted in several houses being washed away and several deaths at the village of Air Manis. The boats moored in the Arau river ended up on dry land, including a 200 ton sailing ship which was deposited about 1 kilometer upstream. In 1833 another tsunami inundated Padang with an estimated flow depth of 3–4 meters as a result of an earthquake, estimated to be 8.6–8.9 Mw, which occurred off Bengkulu. The shaking caused considerable damage in Padang, and due to the tsunami the boats moored in the Arau river broke their anchors and were scattered.
At the time of independence the city had 50,000 or so inhabitants. Coffee was still important, but copra was also a major item produced by farmers in its hinterland. The population growth since then has been partly a result of growth in the area of the city, but largely is a result of the migration to major cities seen in so many developing nations. In 1950 there had also been a development of the Ombilin coal field with Padang as its outlet. This is an indication of the colonization of Indonesia having been economic as well as political.
Administration
Padang is divided in 11 subdistricts (kecamatan): Bungus Teluk Kabung, Koto Tangah, Kuranji, Lubuk Begalung, Lubuk Kilangan, Nanggalo, Padang Barat, Padang Selatan, Padang Timur, Padang Utara, Pauh
Transport
The city is served by the newly-opened Minangkabau International Airport in Ketaping, Padang Pariaman. Padang’s Teluk Bayur harbor is the largest and busiest harbor on the west coast of Sumatra.
Education
Andalas University is the oldest university in Indonesia outside of Java. The main campus is located at Limau Manis, about 12 kilometres (7 mi) from the center of Padang. The other universities in Padang are Universitas Negeri Padang in Air Tawar, Bung Hatta University in Ulak Karang, Baiturrahmah University in Air Pacah, Universitas Putra Indonesia YPTK, Ekasakti University, Universitas Muhammadiyah Sumatera Barat and Tamansiswa University.
Culture
Cuisine
The cuisine of the Minangkabau people is commonly called Padang cuisine, due to it being the capital and largest city of the region. Padang restaurants are common throughout the country and are famous for their spicy food and their unique way of serving it. Padang food is served in small portions of various dishes, in a way similar to tapas or mezedes, but constituting, with rice, a complete meal. In a Padang-style restaurant, the table will quickly be set with dozens of small dishes filled with highly-flavored foods such as curried fish, fried tempeh, stewed greens, chili eggplant, curried beef liver, fried chicken, and of course, sambals, the spicy sauces ubiquitous at Indonesian tables. Customers take – and pay for – only what they want from this array of dishes. The best known Padang dish is rendang, a spicy meat stew. Soto Padang (crispy beef in spicy soup) is local residents’ breakfast favorite, meanwhile Sate (beef satay in curry sauce served with ketupat) is a treat in the evening.
Sport
Padang is the home town of the soccer team Semen Padang, with Haji Agus Salim Stadium being the home stadium of the club.
Tourism
Padang is a common transit point for surfers travelling to Batu Islands and Mentawai Islands, and for tourists visiting the West Sumatran highlands. Padang beach (known as Taplau or Tapi Lauik) which located from Samudra Street until Puruih, is well-known for its beautiful sunset and hundreds of food stalls. Bungus bay, to the south of Padang, is suitable for swimming and boating.
Adityawarman Museum specializes in the history and culture of the local Minangkabau ethic group, and the main exhibits are housed within a Rumah Gadang style building.
Panorama of Padang circa 1900
Panorama of Padang circa 1900
* PLACES OF INATEREST:
Taman Hutan Rauay Bung Hatta
It is a botanical garden covering 70,000 ha, with a rare collection of flora and fauna, situated on the way to Solok, about 300 – 1,000 m above sea level.
The cool mountain air and panoramic views make this area a popular resort for both the young and old. Monkeys and other animals can be found here, and are protected by the Park Warden. Transportation to Taman Hutan Raya Bung Hatta is easy as it lies on the highway to Solok.
“Jam Gadang” Bukittinggi
The heart of the highlands, Bukittinggi is a two-hours drive through beautiful countryside of the Anai falley and up to the Agam Plateau. A centre of attraction is the town’s clocktower topped with a hornshaped roof and referred to by the people as Jam Gadang. It overloks the market square and the citys magnificent surroundings.
Located 930 metres above sea level, Bukittinggi formerly named Fort De Cock by the Dutch has a cool climate and is surrounded by three volcanoes: Tandikat, Singgalang and Merapi. In the outskirts of the town is the Ngarai Sianok, a canyon separating Bukittinggi from Kota Gadang, 12 km away overland.
Kota Gadang is renowned for its fine silver filigree and hand embroidery. Also worth visiting is the Museum which is a Rumah Gadang, a traditional extended family house built in the 19th century.
There are dance performances at the museum’s open stage every Sunday and on public holidays. Night dance performances are at Sliguri. It is also worth seeing the bullfights at Padang Lawas (6 km south of Bukittinggi every Tuesday at 05.00. p.m.
Ngarai Sianok
“Ngarai” (the Indonesia for ‘canyon’ Sianok lies at the outskirt of Bukitinggi. It is a steep-canyon of about 100-150 metres high, very colourful and surround by a green valley with a winding river at its bottom. The beauty of this panoramic landscape is hard to describe as if no words can precisely express this geological wonder. It is even harder to find its rival in the whole country. That is why West Sumatra is very proud of it and always invites visitors to en joy it. Even local people always make it as an item in their tour lists.
Batu Sangkar
An old small town, 50 km southeast of Bukittinggi, is a centre of the ancient Minangkabau culture. Pagaruyung is the historical site of a Minangkabau kingdom in the 14th century, Near Batusangkar is where some archaeological vestiges, such as the Written Stone, the Stabbed Stone and some other relics can be found.
Pariangan – Blimbing
It is said that this little village came into being at the time of the big deluge. It is situated on the slopes of Mt. Merapi, thought to be the cradle of the Minangkabau culture. This historical village still reflects the pure social structure of the Minangkabau conception of a village. A mosque, a council house and adat house with ricebarns form the nucleus of the village.
Anai Valley
The surroundings of the Anai Valley are magnificent. The dense tropical forest all around is most impressive and is a nature reserve. Below runs the river Anai with its crystal clear water. Just on the side of the road is a 40 meter high waterfall.
Padang Panjang
The conservatory of Padangpanjang is a national institute specializing in the Minangkabau music and dances.
Solok Danau Diatas and Danau Dibawah
Lies on the Trans-Sumatra Highway, 64 km from Padang and 76 km from Bukittinggi. The town has some fine examples of Minangkabau architecture with hornshaped roofs and outer walls of wood, completely carved and painted in brilliant colours. Sixty km from Solok are the Twin Lakes ~Danau Diatas and Danau Dibawah) which are becoming popular as a holiday resort.
Cool mountain air and beautiful landscapes seen from the hill between the two lakes have made this spot extraordinary.
Set only about 1 km apart, one of the lakes is on a slightly higher elevation than the other.
The spot offers an impressive panorama of the surrounding countryside and offers itself excellently to hiking or camping.
Lake Singgarak
Another ideal place for recreation and water sport is Lake Singkarak, the longest in West Sumatra and 36 km from Bukit tinggi. There are several motels and restaurants in the area.
Pantai Arta and Kata Both these places are popular beach resorts for the local people. Arta beach is located about 23 km from the centre of Pariaman. It is known for its beautiful pine trees along the sea shore. The sandy beaches, clean water and bright sunshine are perfect for swimming and sunbathing. The pine trees can protect you from the direct sun rays. Kata beach is about 2 km south of Pariaman.
Pulau Mentawai
Four islands make up the Mentawai cluster oh the West Sumatra coast: Siberut, Sipora, Pagai Utara and Pagai Selatan. The people of these islands still live in comparative isolation, maintaining their age-old ways. Siberut is well known for its untouched forests, a part of a nature reserve inhabited by a number of animal species not found anywhere else, among them some rare monkey species. Beautiful coral reefs are found offshore.
Payakumbuh and So Kota Regency
A picturesque village and market place. Fine basketry is available here. It is 35 km from Bukit tinggi and a little further up is the most dramatic view on the Harau Valley.
Harau Valley
Along the road to Harau Valley there is a lovely countryside. Steep granite walls shelter the fertile valley. a waterfall, 150 meters high falls into a basin. The Harau Valley is a nature and wildlife reserve, where tapir, siamangs, boars, wilt/goats and tigers still roam. The Harau Valley is 15 km from Payakumbuh.
Ngalau Indah Caves On the road from Bukit tinggi to Payakumbuh these caves extend deep into the mountainside. The domain of thousands of bats which you won’t see but only hear their squeaks and sense them as they fly close over your head.
At the main entrance is a stone with an outline of an elephant visible on its face. The coolness and damp air is represhing after the tropical hear outside. The path through these caves leads out to the top of the mountain from where it is quite panoramic. The drive up the hillside in itself worth making because of the variety of the exquisite views along way.
Rimba Panti Nature Reserve
Fauna and flora of the Rimba Panti Nature Reserve are protected. It is situated 103 km from Bukit tinggi. Stop at Batang Palupuh, 16 km from Bukit tinggi.
There, in a small reserve is the Rafflesia Arnoldi, the biggest flower in existence, which blooms only once a year. Sixty km from Bukit tinggi on this road is a small monument defining the equator at the village of Bon jolt.
The reserve’s inhabitants include several species of monkeys, honey bears, tigers, flying squirrels, birds, butterflies, etc. A guide can be obtained from the office at the reserve. The provincial office of the Directorate of Nature Conservation (BKSAA) at Padang can give you complete information.
Pandai Sikat The village of Pandai Sikat is 10 km from Bukit tinggi with its hand weaving and carving industry. The village has 1000 looms and turns out richly interwoven cloth. Carved wooden ornaments and furniture are also made here.
Danau Maninjau ( Lake Maninjau )
A winding road with 44 sharp turns descends to Lake Maninjau, 36 km from Bukit tinggi. A crater lake, it abounds with fish. There are also facilities for swimming and water skiing. The village of Matur, overlooking lakes, arranges dance performances on request.
Bukittinggi
The heart of the highlands, Bukittinggi is a two-hours drive through beautiful countryside of the Anai valley and up to the Agam Plateau. A center of attraction is the town’s clock-tower, topped with a horn- shaped roof and referred to by the people as Jam Gadang. It overlooks the market square and the city’s magnificent surroundings.
Located 930 meters above sea level, Bukittinggi, formerly named Fort De Cock by the Dutch, has a cool climate and is surrounded by three volcanoes: Tandikat, Singgalang and Merapi. In the outskirts of the town is the Ngarai Sianok, a canyon separating Bukittinggi from Kota Gadang, 12 km away overland.
Kota Gadang is renowned for its fine silver filigree and hand embroidery.
Also worth visiting is the Museum which is a Rumah Gadang, a traditional extended family house built in the 19th century. There are dance performances at the museum’s open stage every Sunday and on public holidays. Night dance performances are at Sliguri. It is also worth seeing the bullfights at Padang Lawas (6 km south of Bukittinggi) every Tuesday at 5.00 p.m.
Taman Hutan Raya Bung Hatta
It is a botanical garden covering 70,000 ha, with a rare collection of flora and fauna, situated on the way to Solok, about 300 – 1,000 m above sea level.
The cool mountain air and panoramic views make this area a popular resort for both the young and old.
Monkeys and other animals can be seen here, and are protected by the Park Warden. Transportation to Taman Hutan Raya Bung Hatta is easy.
Pandai Sikat
The village of Pandai Sikat is 10 km from Bukittinggi with its hand weaving and carving industry. The village has 1000 looms and turns out richly interwoven cloth. Carved wooden ornaments and furniture are also made here.
Payakumbuh
A picturesque village and market place. Fine basketry is available here. It is 35 km from Bukittinggi and a little further up is the most dramatic view on the Harau Valley.
Pantai Arta and Kata
Both these places are popular beach resorts for the local people. Arta beach is located about 23 km from the center of Pariaman. It is known for its beautiful pine trees along the sea shore. The sandy beaches, clean water and bright sunshine are perfect for swimming and sunbathing. The pine trees can protect you from the direct sun rays. Kata beach is about 2 km south of Pariaman.
Ngalau Indah Caves
On the road from Bukittinggi to Payakumbuh these caves extend deep into the mountainside. The domain of thousands of bats which you won’t see but only hear and sense as they fly close over your head.
At the main entrance is a stone with an outline of an elephant visible on its face. The coolness and damp air is refreshing after the tropical heat outside. The path through these caves leads out to the top of the mountain from where it is quite panoramic. The drive up to the hillside is itself worth making because of the variety of the exquisite views along way.
Batusangkar
An old small town, 50 km southeast of Bukit-tinggi, it is a centre of the ancient Minangkabau culture. Pagaruyung is the historical site of a Minangkabau kingdom in the 14th century. Nearby is where some archaeological vestiges, such as the Written Stone, the Stabbed Stone and some other relics can be found.
Padangpanjang
The conservatory of Padangpanjang is a national institute specializing in the Minangkabau music and dances.
Shopping Hints
Hand-woven silk sarongs, embroidered garments and house-linen, richly woven cloth, gold and silver threads jewelry, wood carving, ornaments of coconut shell and seashells. There are also traditional copper-ware and miniature models of Minangkabau houses.
Kerinci Seblat National Park
Sumatra’s largest national parks the Kerinci sprawls across four provinces. It is home to rhinos, tigers, elephants, bears and orang-utan. The scenery is magnificent, dominated by volcanic cones, including the highest peak in western Indonesia, Mt. Kerinci. Lake Kerinci is the best place to sight the park’s famous bird life: hornbills, banded-broadbills and drongos, whose tails give the illusion that the birds is constantly being chased by two black butterflies.
