Papua is the largest province of Indonesia, comprising a majority part of the western half of the island of New Guinea and nearby islands (see also Western New Guinea). The province originally covered the entire western half of New Guinea, but in 2003, the western portion of the province, on the Bird’s Head Peninsula, was declared by the Indonesian Government as a separate province named West Papua. The legality of this separation has been disputed as it appears to conflict with the conditions of the Special Autonomy status awarded to Papua in the year 2000. The status of West Irian Jaya province is not yet resolved as of early
“Papua” is the official Indonesian and internationally recognised name for the province. During the Dutch colonial era the region was known as part of “Dutch New Guinea” or “Netherlands New Guinea“. The province was known as “West Irian” or “Irian Barat” from 1969 to 1973, and then renamed “Irian Jaya” (roughly translated, “Glorious Irian”) by the Suharto administration. This was the official name until “Papua” was adopted in 2002. Today, natives of this province prefer to call themselves Papuans rather than Irianese. This may be due to etymology (variously identified as a real etymology or a folk etymology) of the name Irian which stems from the acronym Ikut Republik Indonesia, Anti Nederland (join/follow the Republic of Indonesia, rejecting The Netherlands).[citation needed]
The name “West Papua” was adopted in 1961 by the New Guinea Council until the United Nations Temporary Executive Authority (UNTEA) transfer administration to the Republic of Indonesia in 1963. “West Papua” has since been used among Papuan separatists and usually refers to the whole of the Indonesian portion of New Guinea. The other Indonesian province that shares New Guinea, West Irian Jaya, has been officially renamed as “West Papua”.
Government
The province of Papua is governed by a directly-elected governor (currently Barnabas Suebu) and a regional legislature, DPRP (Dewan Perwakilan Rakyat Papua). A unique government organisation that only exists in Papua is the MRP (Majelis Rakyat Papua / Papuan People’s Council) that was formed by the Indonesian Government in 2005 as a coalition of Papuan tribal chiefs, tasked with arbitration and speaking on behalf of Papuan tribal customs.
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In 1999 it was proposed to split the province into three government-controlled sectors, sparking Papuan protests (see external article). In January 2003 President Megawati Sukarnoputri signed an order dividing Papua into three provinces: Central Irian Jaya (Irian Jaya Tengah), Papua (or East Irian Jaya, Irian Jaya Timur), and West Papua (Irian Jaya Barat). The formality of installing a local government for Jaraka in Irian Jaya Barat (West) took place in February 2003 and a governor was appointed in November; a government for Irian Jaya Tengah (central) was delayed from August 2003 due to violent local protests. The creation of this separate central province was blocked by Indonesian courts, who declared it to be unconstitutional and in contravention of the Papua’s special autonomy agreement. The previous division into two provinces was allowed to stand as an established fact. (King, 2004, p. 91)
In January 2006, 43 refugees landed on the coast of Australia and stated that the Indonesian military is carrying out a genocide in Papua. They were transported to an Australian immigration detention facility on Christmas Island, 360 km south of the western end of Java. On March 23, 2006, the Australian government granted temporary visas to 42 of the 43 asylum seekers (the 43rd, who had a Japanese visa at the time of his arrival, finally received an Australian visa in early August 2006). On March 24 2006 Indonesia recalled its ambassador to Australia.
Regions
Indonesia structures regions by regencies and subdistricts within those. Though names and areas of control of these regional structures can vary over time in accord with changing political and other requirements, in 2005 Papua province consisted of 19 regencies (kabupaten).
The regencies (”kabupaten”) are: Asmat; Biak-Numfor; Boven Digoel; Jayapura; Jayawijaya; Keerom; Mappi; Merauke; Mimika; Nabire; Paniai; Pegunungan Bintang; Puncak Jaya; Sarmi; Supiori; Tolikara; Waropen; Yahukimo and Yapen Waropen. In addition to these, the city of Jayapura also has the status of a regency.
Jayapura, founded on 7 March 1910 as Hollandia, had by 1962 developed into a city with modern civil, educational, and medical services. Since Indonesian administration these services have been replaced by Indonesian equivalents such as the TNI (the army) replacing the Papua Battalion. The name of the city has been changed to Kotabaru, then to Sukarnopura and finally to its current official name. Among ethnic Papuans, it is also known as Port Numbai, the former name before the arrival of immigrants.
Jayapura is the largest city, boasting a small but active tourism industry, it is built on a slope overlooking the bay. Cenderawasih University (UNCEN) campus at Abepura houses the University Museum. Both Tanjung Ria beach, near the market at Hamadi—site of the 22 April 1944 Allied invasion during World War II—and the site of General Douglas MacArthur’s World War II headquarters at Ifar Gunung have monuments commemorating the events.
Geography
A central east-west mountain range dominates the geography of New Guinea, over 1600 km in total length. The western section is around 600 km long and 100 km across. The province contains the highest mountains between the Himalayas and the Andes, rising up to 4884 m high, and ensuring a steady supply of rain from the tropical atmosphere. The tree line is around 4000 m elevation and the tallest peaks contain permanent equatorial glaciers, increasingly melting due to a changing climate. Various other smaller mountain ranges occur both north and west of the central ranges. Except in high elevations, most areas possess a warm humid climate throughout the year, with some seasonal variation associated with the northeast monsoon season.
The third major habitat feature are the vast southern and northern lowlands. Stretching for hundreds of kilometers, these include lowland rainforests, extensive wetlands, savanna grasslands, and some of the largest expanses of mangrove forest in the world. The southern lowlands are the site of Lorentz National Park, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Mamberamo river, sometimes referred to as the “Amazon of Papua” is the province’s largest river which winds through the northern part of the province. The result is a large area of lakes and rivers known as the Lakes Plains region. The famous Baliem Valley, home of the Dani people is a tableland 1600 m above sea level in the midst of the central mountain range; Puncak Jaya, sometimes known by its former Dutch name Carstensz Pyramid, is a mist covered limestone mountain peak 4884 m above sea level.
Tribes
The following are some of the most well-known tribes of Papua:
* Amungme
* Asmat
* Bauzi
* Dani
* Kamoro
* Kombai
* Korowai
* Mee
* Sentani
* Yali
Demographics
The population of Papua province and the neighboring West Papua province, both of which are still under a united administration, totalled 2,646,489 in 2005. Since the early 1990s Papua has had the highest population growth rate of all Indonesian provinces at over 3% annually. This is partly a result of high birth rates, but also from immigration from other regions in Indonesia.
According to the 2000 census, 78% of the Papuans identified themselves as Christian with 54% being Protestant and 24% being Roman Catholic. 21% of the population was Muslim and less than 1% were Buddhist or Hindu. There is also substantial practice of animism by Papuans, which is not recognized by the Indonesian government in line with the policy of Pancasila.[citation needed]
Ecology
A vital tropical rainforest with the tallest tropical trees and vast biodiversity, Papua’s known forest fauna includes marsupials (including possums, wallabies, tree-kangaroos, cuscuses), other mammals (including the endangered Long-beaked Echidna), many bird species (including birds of paradise, cassowaries, parrots, cockatoos), the world’s longest lizards (Papua monitor) and the world’s largest butterflies.
The island has an estimated 16,000 species of plant, 124 genera of which are endemic.
The extensive waterways and wetlands of Papua are also home to salt and freshwater crocodile, tree monitors, flying foxes, osprey, bats and other animals; while the equatorial glacier fields remain largely unexplored.
In February 2006, a team of scientists exploring the Foja Mountains, Sarmi, discovered numerous new species of birds, butterflies, amphibians, and plants, including a species of rhododendron which may have the largest bloom of the genus.
Ecological threats include logging-induced deforestation, forest conversion for plantation agriculture (especially oil palm), smallholder agricultural conversion, the introduction and potential spread of non-native alien species such as the Crab-eating Macaque which preys on and competes with indigenous species, the illegal species trade, and water pollution from oil and mining operations.
Papua’s ancient rain forests have recently come under an even greater threat of deforestation after the Chinese government has placed an order of 1 billion US dollar or 800,000 cubic meters of the threatened merbau (intsia spp) rainforest timbers, to be used in constructions for the 2008 Summer Olympics.
Place of Interest:
Jayapura :
Jayapura is the capital city of Irian jaya Province was known as Hollandaise from 1910 to 1962 as the capital of Nederland New Guinea. After the integration to Indonesia it was rename Kotabaru then Sukarnopura and finally Jayapura up till now. The bustling city of almost 250.000 spreads in back of what used to be known as Humboldt Bay (Now Yos Sudarso Bay). Here you can find some remain of the World War II, Sentani lake with unique lake and arts. Beside it you may also see Museum with fascinating collection including Asmat arts.
The Baliem Valley :
Yaniruma is a home to Korowai people, the people who live in the Tree House. They live in cleared land deep in the rain forest with traditional way, some of them still holding the old beliefs and used to practice until Missionary arrived and built new settlement to get the Korowai and Kombai (the neighbor tribe) more developed. The missionary arrived in 1970’s brought Christian religion there. Yaniruma was opened to tourist early in 1980’s but till now the place is still the most remote tribe and desired by most of adventurous tourists all at once anthropology expeditions. It is unique cultures and environments make adventure interested to come. Korowai & Kombai people always moves from one place to another in order to be close to the foods and hunted animals provided by nature. Korowai is hunter and gatherer who move and build a new tree house once every 2 or 3 years. They built the houses around 20 meters-50 meters from the ground. The traditional wear of Korowai tribe is very simple, men wear a piece of leave or small penis gourd to cover their penis and women wear the skirt made of woven sago leaves, while the Kombai tribe same with Korowai but some of Kombai men wear the hornbill head instead of the gourd during the feast time. The Korowai area neighbors of Citak Mitak & Asmat Tribe and near Dairam rivers.
Asmat Tribe :
The tidal swamplands of Irian jaya’s south coast are one of the best-known, but also least accessible parts of the island. This is the land of the Asmat with world famous for their spectacular wood carvings and previously notorious as head hunters and cannibals. The Asmat area is divided into four major zones based on art style: Northwest Asmat, Central Asmat (Citak Mitak tribe to the East), Braza river in the Northeast and around Senggo & Dairam rivers.
The Asmat woodcarvings are considered to be among the World’s finest. Asmat carving was inextricably connected with the spirit world. Woodcarving always produced in a ritual context and served as powerful materializations of ancestral and other spirit. Carvings were often named for them who recently died for serving to remind their owners that vengeance was still not served. The carving can not be principally considered aesthetic object.
Recently there are some carvers do not know or understand all the hidden meaning in their work. Their skill is directed as much by tradition as by a quest for beauty. For Asmat arts are the outward expression of ancient beliefs and custom. Every Asmat male is a carver in his own right, but the prestigious title of “wow ipit” is bestowed on only the greatest among them. These master carvers are commissioned by the villagers to undertake special carving such as ancestral poles.
Biak :
Biak is the best-known of the former scouted island and the most populated. A town was built on the coral of the island of cenderawasih bay. The island rich in history and natural beauty such as Japanese solider cave, and museum full of relics. Further out from the town, one encounters beautiful waterfalls and reefs. There are some good beaches on Biak Island, the most popular of which are Bosnik on the east coast, good for swimming and skin-diving, and Korem on the north coast, where one can watch young men dive for pearls. Supiori Island, just north of Biak, has a recreation forest and villages where visitors are welcome.
Manokwari :
The city of Manokwari becomes the capital of West New Guinea since Dutch colonization. Located at the northern part of the Irian mainland, Manokwari lays on the beautiful surrounding gorges, the main interest around Manokwari includes Gunung Meja Park, from where you can view the scenery of Manokwari town, Amban beach, Anggi Lake and Arfak Reserve.
SORONG :
Sorong is definitely not a tourist town. The town of Sorong is a fading oil center, with rusting tin roofs that stretch along eight km of seashore at the westernmost tip of the Bird’s head. We can say that the town is fully with disco nightlife while for daylight activities are strict business. There are some good beaches and islands to visit. In Sorong, you may also found the Japanese monument who died here in the World War II and casuarinas trees which grow in the area.
Pasir Putih Beach
Pasir Putih Beach. A soft white sandy beach with clear water, beautiful scenery, and gentle breeze makes it a good place for recrea¬tion and swimming. Only 2 kilometers from Manokwari town, this beach can be reached by motorcycle, car, or public transport.
Amban Beach
Amban Beach. Facing the Pacific Ocean, ha¬ving a wave altitude of 2 meters most of the time, this beach is perfect for water skiing and wind surfing. Located five kilometers from Manokwari town, this beach can be accessible by motorcycle, car, or public transport.
Lake Kabori
Lake Kabori Stretching out with beautiful panorama, it is a wonderful place for fishing fresh water fish like goldfish, “mujair” (a kind of fresh water fish), and fresh water cat fish. Situated 20 kilometers from Manokwari town, this lake can be reached by motorcycle, car, or public transport.
Traditional House: Rumah Kaki Seribu
Traditional House: Rumah Kaki Seribu. This house is particularly built by the Arfak ethnic group. Rare and unique in design, this type of house has many pole to support it. It is for this reason that the house is called Rumah Kaki Seribu (House with one thousand feet). Its walls are made of tree barks; its roof is made of coarse grass. This house can still be found in remote places like Kebar and Anggi.
Meja Mountain And Japanese Monument
This mountain, looking like a table in the distance, is a preserved and protected area. Still a virgin forest, having enchanting and beautiful panorama, this area is good for hiking, and other similar sporting activities. A monument, called Monumen Jepang, has been erected on this mountain to commemorate the first arrival of the Japanese Army, divisions 221 and 222. Only two kilometers from Manokwari town, this place can accessed by motorcycle or on foot.
Maredred Waterfall
Maredred Waterfall. Located in Pasir Putih village with a beautiful natural panorama, this waterfall has various types of flora and fauna. It is a wonderful bathing place. It can be reached within ten minutes by boat from Fak-Fak town and by walking within two and a half hours following the river bank.
Tubir Seram Island
Tubir Seram Island. Located in front of Fak-Fak town, this island has an amazing and beautiful natural scenery. It has a garden full of many colourful flowers and many types of plants. A monument, called “Perjuangan Merah Putih”, was erected there. A mini museum was also built there to keep artifact of historical values. It is accessible within five minutes from Fak-Fak town by boat.
Mermaid Cagement
Mermaid Cagement. This unique fish is traditionally raised in Webra village. This place can be assessed by various types of vehicles.
Pepera Monument
Pepera Monument. Erected in 1969, and located in the center of the town, this monument commemorates Indonesia’s struggle to have West Papua (the former name of Papua) back. It is located in the center of the town.
World War II Monument
World War II Monument. Built by the Dutch in 1948 in the center of the town, this mo¬nument commemorates the assassination of police officers and other government workers by Japanese Army.
Japanese Army Fortress
Japanese Army Fortress. Built in 1944/1945 and located at the center of Kokas town, this fortress was used as a defense and hi¬ding place for the Japanese Army during the Second World War. It can be reached within four hours by boat from Fak-Fak town.
Pre-historical Hand Palm Picture
Pre-historical Hand Palm Picture. Ancient reddish pictures of hand palm, weapon, and animals on the cliffs of the islands at an average altitude of 10-30 meters from sea level in front of Kokas town.
Cape Of Cassuwary
Cape Of Cassuwary. It is a beautiful long and clean beach where there are kept plenty of exotic corals. It is also suitable for diving lovers. The distance from Sorong town is 3 km and can be reached by vehicles.
Crocodile Island
Crocodile Island. An island with slightly sloping beach, soft sand and pure water is very suitable for swimming and fishing. It is located 0.5 km across Sorong town and accessible by speed boat.
Kafiau Island
Kafiau Island. An island located in the middle of Dampir Waigeo Straits is very rich of sea biotics. Apart from its scenic nature, it has also an interesting and enchanting sea bottom that is very suitable for diving lo-vers. It is about 1.5 hours to reach by motor boat from Sorong town.
Matan Island
Matan Island. An island with various kinds of trees, soft sands and pure water is a place for bathing and fishing. It is accessile approximately 20 minutes from Sorong town by speed boat.
Klaijili Hot Spring
Klaijili Hot Spring. Here is a hot spring found in Makbon District that is used to cure skin diseases. It is situated 60 km from Sorong town and reachable by vehicles.
The Raja Ampat Islands And Coral Tria-ngle
The Raja Ampat Islands And Coral Tria-ngle. The Raja Ampat, or “Four Kings,” archipelago encompasses more than 9.8 million acres of land and sea off the northwestern tip of Indonesia’s West Papua Province. Located in the Coral Triangle, the heart of the world’s coral reef biodiversity, the seas around Raja Ampat possibly hold the richest variety of species in the world. Four large islands of Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati, and Misool, plus hundreds of smaller islands area known as the Bird’s Head functional seascape, which also contains Cenderawasih Bay, the largest marine national park in Indonesia.
Located off the northwest tip of Bird’s Head Peninsula on the island of New Guinea, Raja Ampat, or the Four Kings, is an archipelago comprising over 1,500 small islands and encompasses more than 9.8 million acres (40,000 km²) of land and sea.
Raja Ampat are the richest in the world. The area’s massive coral colonies show that its reefs are resistant to threats like coral bleaching and disease – threats that now jeopardize the survival of corals around the world. In addition, Raja Ampat’s strong ocean currents sweep coral larvae across the Indian and Pacific Oceans to replenish other reef ecosystems. Raja Ampat’s coral diversity, resilience, and ability to replenish reefs make it a global priority for marine protection. Raja Ampat’s total number of confirmed corals to 537 species (a remarkable 96% of all scleratinia recorded from Indonesia are likely to occur in these islands), and 699 mollusks species, the variety of marine life is staggering. Some areas boast enormous schools of fish and regular sightings of sharks, such as wobbegongs. In Mansuar, it’s highly likely you’ll encounter large groups of manta rays and turtles. From the boat and often close to shore you may get the chance to done your snorkeling gear for some unforgettable interaction with resident pods of dolphins or even some passing whales.
On land, the survey found lush forests, rare plants, limestone outcroppings, and nesting beaches for thousands of sea turtles.
