EAST JAVA -SURABAYA

East Java (Indonesian: Jawa Timur) is a province of Indonesia. It is located on the eastern part of the island of Java and also includes neighboring Madura and Bawean islands. The administrative center of the province is located in Surabaya, the second largest city in Indonesia and a major industrial center and port.

Population

According to the 2000 census, East Java has 34 million inhabitants, second only to West Java among Indonesian provinces. The inhabitants consist of mostly Javanese. Native minorities include migrants from nearby Madura, and distinct Javanese ethnicities such as the Tengger people in Bromo, the Samin and the Osing people in Banyuwangi. East Java also hosts a significant population of other ethnic groups, such as Chinese, Indians, and Arabs. In addition to the national language, Indonesian, they also speak Javanese. Javanese spoken in the western part of East Java is indistinguishable from the one spoken in nearby Central Java, with its hierarchy of high, medium, and low speeches. But in the eastern cities of Surabaya, Malang, and surrounding areas, the people speak a more egalitarian version of Javanese, with much less regard for hierarchy and a richer vocabulary for vulgarity.

While Madurese is spoken by around 15 millions of Madurese, concentrated in Madura Island, Kangean Islands, Masalembu Islands, Eastern part of East Java, and East Java main cities.

Religion

The main religion used to be Hinduism and Buddhism. With the arrival of Islam, Hinduism was gradually pushed out in the 14th and 15th century. The last nobles and remainders of the fallen empire of Majapahit fled from this point to Bali. This comes from earlier history, when Islam spread from northern cities in Java where many traders from Gujarat, India visited, bringing Islam. The eastern part of East Java, from Surabaya to Pasuruan, then following various cities along the coast line, and turning back in Banyuwangi to Jember, is well known as the “horseshoe area” in context with earlier Muslim communities living there.

Nevertheless, pockets of Hinduism have survived and abangan, the syncretic religion of Islam, Hinduism and Animism, remains strong. See Hinduism in Java for more information.

Administrative areas

East Java is administratively divided into 29 regencies (or kabupaten) and 9 cities (or kotamadya).

Regencies (seat):

* Bangkalan Regency (Bangkalan)
* Banyuwangi
* Blitar
* Bojonegoro
* Bondowoso
* Gresik
* Jember
* Jombang
* Kediri
* Lamongan, Lumajang
* Madiun
* Magetan
* Malang
* Mojokerto
* Nganjuk
* Ngawi
* Pacitan
* Pamekasan
* Pasuruan
* Ponorogo
* Probolinggo
* Sampang
* Sidoarjo
* Situbondo
* Sumenep
* Trenggalek
* Tuban
* Tulungagung

Cities:

* Batu
* Blitar
* Kediri
* Madiun
* Malang
* Mojokerto
* Pasuruan
* Probolinggo
* Surabaya

History

East Java’s history dates back to the famous ancient kingdoms of Kediri and Singhasari, which is now a city near Malang. The Majapahit empire, centered at Trowulan, Mojokerto East Java, is celebrated by Indonesians as the golden age of the archipelago. The Eastern Java region was the part of the Mataram kingdom during its peak.

Natural resources

* Chalk (Trenggalek & Gresik the city is also famous of its cement industries.)
* Marble (Tulung Agung)
* Oil (Cepu)
* Salt (Madura Island)

Education

East Java hosts some of the famous universities in Indonesia, both owned by government and private. Three major cities for universities, because they have government’s universities, are Surabaya, Malang, and Jember. Among them, Airlangga University and Institut Teknologi Sepuluh Nopember are the most famous, and both are located in Surabaya.

Another important form of education that is available in most cities in East Java is the pesantren. This kind of education is built and organized by Islamic clerics, and associated with local or national Muslim organizations. Jombang is a famous city for its pesantren.

National parks

* Meru Betiri National Park - Between Jember and Banyuwangi districts, this park covers 580 km² (224 sq mi). Hard to get to, it contains fantastic coastal rainforest and scenery and is home to abundant wildlife.
* Alas Purwo National Park - This 434 km² (168 sq mi) park is formed by the Blambangan Peninsula (south eastern Java). Comprised of mangrove, savanna, lowland monsoon forests and excellent beaches, the park’s name means First Forest in Javanese. Javanese legend says that the earth first emerged from the ocean here.
* Baluran National Park – This 250 km² (97 sq mi) national park is located in north east Java, once known as Indonesia’s little piece of Africa, the parks formerly extensive savanna has been largely replaced by Acacia.
* Mount Bromo and Tengger caldera, Semeru National Park, 7°56.355′S, 112°57.170′E(alt 2500 m); located in East Java at the region of Probolinggo and Pasuruan, 70 km (43 mi) from Surabaya the capital city of East Java province. Mount Bromo is one of the great hiking and trekking destinations for overseas tourists. The breathtaking view of Bromo also attracts hundreds of photo enthusiasts to see the views there.

Places of Interest:

Kali Mas Harbour

Surabaya’s historic Kali Mas harbour is the explanation for Surabaya’s existence, and the best place to begin a tour of the city. Buginese boats come to the wharf bringing timber, oil, copra and other produce from the outer islands, and ship out enormous amounts of cement and other building materials, which are testimony to the success of the Government’s development projects. The ferry to the neighboring island of Madura also leaves from here.

Tanjung Perak

To the east of Kali Mas harbour, the modern port of Tanjung Perak is the second biggest port in Indonesia after Jakarta, and the gateway through which Eastern Indonesia’s products pass to the outside world. The port occupies 574.7 hectares of sea area, and is facilitated by a Port Administrator, shipping and forwarding associations, and a ship owners association. The Indonesian navy uses Tanjung Perak as a base, and permission is needed to visit the site.

The Mosque of Sunan Ngampel

A gateway on Jalan Ampel Suci leads to one of Java’s most sacred mosques, and the grave of Sunan Ngampel, one of the nine missionaries (wali sanga) who first bought islam to Java in the 15th century. Heterodox traditions have grown around the wali sanga and they have been attributed with almost divine powers. People gather around the tomb to pray and ask for favours, although veneration of the dead is strictly forbidden under islam. Good Muslims merely pray to Allah for the peace of the dead man’s soul.

Chinese Temples and Ash Houses

Historic China town is found around Klenteng Dukuh, the red temple with the Chinese characters for “Peace” and Prosperity emblazoned in gold above burning candles and incense, in Jalan Kapasan. The Chinese population married and mingled with the local people while retaining their own identity, and consequently Chinese and local elements have fused in both cuisine and culture. Signs of the Chinese veneration for their deceased relatives can be seen in the ‘ash houses’ places built for ancestral worship, which often occupy a whole building on a piece of real estate worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. These buildings can be recognised by the Chinese characters and burning incense placed outside them.

Another Chinese shrine, Hok An Kiong, was built in the 18th century and is located on Jalan Selompretan. This shrine is dedicated to the safety and well-being of sailors, and offerings are made here to propitiate the sea.

The Arab Quarter: Silks, Spices and Incense

The Arab Quarter lies to the south of Kali Mas harbour on Jalan Kyai Mas Mansyur. Despite the name, the district is home to an amazing mixture of races and ethnic groups, including Yemenis, Pakistanis, Gujaratis and Mallets. Shops selling silks, sari, batik and other cloth crowd around a warren-like market which is pervaded by the aroma of spices and incense.

The Red Bridge of Surabaya

The colour of the bridge that marks the entrance to the 19th century colonial business district off Jalan Veteran could most aptly be described as “blood red”. Red is a sign of the courage and determination for which the people of East Java are famous, and one of the most famous battles in the larger Battle of Surabaya accurred here. The white-washed walls and red-tiled roofs of the colonial buildings here date to the boom period of the 1920s.

oko Dolog: Surabaya’s Mascot

One of the strangest sights of Surabaya is aptly named ‘Fat Boy’ statue, more formally known as Joko Dolog. This ancient statue sits grinning from a park in the middle of the city’s administrative district, close to Grahadi, the Governor of East Java’s official residence. The stories say that this statue was built at the orders of King Kertanegara in the 13th century to dispel a curse that prevented the city from prospering. The city of Surabaya continues to prosper. It is a place where the past flows into the future in an unbroken tradition , and where signs of that tradition are visible everywhere.

Surabaya Shopping

The Indonesian enthusiasm for shopping and “malling” combine with Surabaya’s commercial status of long standing heaven. “Five Star” shopping centers and traditional “bazaars” alike offer everything under the sun in both extremes on the scales of cost and status.

For the busy business or convention visitor, some to the more up market shopping malls are conveniently located adjacent to their hotels, while the older and traditional venues make for more interesting bargain hunting and treasure finding expeditions for those with a little time on their hand.

Antiques, even the simulated variety, from the region are often very attractive buys. So are handicraft, textiles and handmade jewelry.

SHOPPING MALLS

For one-stop shopping, the city’s proudest testaments to modern consumerism are Plazas Tunjungan and Plaza Surabaya on Jl. Pemuda , near the World Trade Center. Both come equipped with floor after floor of designer boutiques, electronics and appliance shops, furniture showrooms, sporting goods, duty free shops, McDonald’s outlets and fast-food courts; and both are anchored by well-stocked Matahari department stores.

SUPERMARKETS

In terms of quality and selection, the best produce in Surabaya can be found at Hero in Plaza Tunjungan I and at the Gelael outlets on Jl. Jend. Basuki Rahmat and in Surabaya Plaza. For 24-hour grocery shopping try the Sinar store on Jl. Bintoro.

BOOKS

A wide selection of foreign language newspapers, magazines, novels and travel guides can be found in the book stores of Surabaya’s largest hotels: the Hyatt Regency and Shangri-La have the best range. Also look for Gunung Agung stores in plazas Surabaya and Tunjungan and for Gramedia at Jl. Jend. Basuki Rakhmat 95.

GOLD

Surabaya’s local gold market is crowded along Jl. Blauran just north of the city centre. prices are reasonable (mostly 24 karat available) but jewelry craftsmanship is the big bargain. It pays to shop around.

HANDICRAFTS

Indonesia’s 27 provinces and 300 odd ethnic groups have produced a plethora of unique handicrafts, ranging from primitive wood carvings and totems to intricately designed cloths, painstakingly delicate silver filigrees, puppets, masks, and pots. The bounty of this rich cultural heritage is easily available in Surabaya, both in modern shopping malls where prices are fixed and in private galleries and gift shops where bargaining is half the fun.

Opposite the Hyatt Regency on Jl. Jend. Basuki Rakhmat, look for Toko Bali Which specializes, as its name suggests, in arts and crafts from the nearby island of Bali. Further down the road at Wing On Art Shop you’ll find a pot-pourri of curios and easy-to carry souvenir items. Mirota on Jl. Sulawesi 24 and Karwati Art Shop at Jl. Embong Wungu 30 are also good: or try the top floors of Sarinah Department Store on Jl. Tunjungan for guaranteed quality offering a wide selection of batik and ikat cloths, wood carving and jewelry.

Trowulan – Pandaan – Tretes

The surroundings of Trowulan village is believed to be the site of the ancient capital of Majapahit.

Archaeological excavations in the area have recovered many terra-cotta ornaments, statues, pottery and stone carvings which are displayed at the Trowulan Museum. The map in the museum is a guide to nearby sites of historical interest.

The Candra Wilwatika open-air theater in Pandaan, 45 km south of Surabaya presents classical East Javanese ballet performances on each full moon night from June to November. The performances are based either on the Ramayana stories or East Java’s legends and folklore. The backdrop of Mt. Pananggungan gives the performances an enchanting experience.

Up to ten km from Chandra Wilwatika is Tretes, one of the most beautiful mountain resorts of East Java. Hotels and roads cling to the hillside with swimming pools for a dip in the cool climate. Horses are also available for hire. Camping ground is available near the Kakek Bodo waterfall.

Malang

Ninety km south of Surabaya lies Malang, one of the most attractive town in Java. A strong sense of civic pride can be noticed from the well-maintained and painted becaks, the neat main square, buildings and streets. The cool climate is one reason why it is highly desirable among the East Javanese as a place to retire. Twenty km from Malang on the southern flank of Mt. Arjuna, are Selecta and Songgoriti, popular hill resorts with hot springs. Five km nearby lies Batu, famous for its apples and flowers. Sports facilities at Selecta include horse riding, swimming, and tennis.

Purwodadi Botanical Garden

Founded in 1941 for the study of plants growing under relatively dry conditions, the Purwodadi gardens lie about 30 km northeast of Malang just off the Surabaya-Malang main road on the lowest slopes of Mt. Arjuno at about 300 meters altitude. It covers an area of about 85 ha (212 acres).

Mount Kawi Fortune Hunting

A sage’s grave on mount Kawi, near Malang, has for decades enjoyed unrivaled fame among those who seek to increase their worldly blessings through pilgrimages, offerings, and meditations besides hard work.

Most of the pilgrims to Gunung Kawi are Indonesian Chinese, but even to unbelievers the place is worth a visit for its intensely Javanese atmosphere, with frequent wayang and gamelan performances and a quaint mixture of Javanese and Chinese influences.

The grave itself is built on a hilltop, but to its left and right of the long stairway is an assortment of sacred springs, Chinese houses of worship, flowers, and souvenir stalls.

Mount Bromo

One of the most exciting experiences is watching the sunrise from the crest of the Bromo volcano which is a three-hour drive from Surabaya, followed by a pony ride from the village of Ngadisari over a sea of sand to the foot of the volcano. Ascend the 50 steps to reach the rim.

On the vast expanse of sand, formerly a caldera, there are two volcanoes: the extinct Batok which is a perfect cone and the Bromo.

Volcanic sulfur fumes and smoke still emanate from its depth, while during intense rumbling sounds the surrounding population who believes in the God of Bromo quickly brings offerings.

The annual offering ceremony of Kasada wa held on November 23-24, 1991. It is a colorful event where villagers from the surrounding areas bring their produce of sacrifice to the holy volcano.

Baluran National Park/Wildlife Reserve

Located at the eastern tip of East Java, just off the Surabaya-Banyuwangi main road, it is dry country-side of open forests and scrub land, bordered at the coast by marshes, swampy groves and white beaches. A land-rover or jeep is perhaps the only vehicle that can stand the long haul across these rugged grassy plains. Here, the banteng wild ox, deer and birds can be photographed in their natural habitat.

Kaliklatak

A privately owned plantation with an elevation of 450-750 m above sea level, on the slope of Mt. Semeru covering a 2.500 acres of land producing coffee, rubber, cocoa and spices. Cloves begin as flowers on the clove tree, cinnamon is ground bark, pepper grown on vines and nutmeg like golf-ball size pears hanging on broad leafed trees, are to be seen.

Touring the plantation is a trip through a vast, exotic spice machine process which ends with neat packages ready for export.

Sadengan

A famous wildlife reserve and feeding ground but of a smaller size than that of Baluran.

Located in the forest of “Hutan Purwo”, 81 km to the south of Banyuwangi. It is in possession of 700 wild buffaloes and varieties of other wild animals, all of which can be seen grazing in the late afternoon from the viewing tower.

Triangulasi

13 km south of Sadengan on the coast with a beautiful beach view. A nice location to watch the sunset and a place where turtles lay eggs.

Sukamade Turtle Beach

78 km south of Banyuwangi with its deep turquoise water, 250 kg sea turtles and a long beach, surrounded by vast cocoa, coffee and rubber plantations, are to be found here.

Meru Betiri Reserve

After a 30 km very rough road which crosses half a dozen rivers through dense jungle and a rubber plantation, you finally arrive here on the southeastern tip of the province, where the last of the Javanese tigers had sought refuge. A hundred and fifty years ago Javanese tigers inhabited most of Java and was even considered a nuisance in some populated areas. But through the 1800s and early 1990s it was hunted mercilessly and its habitat destroyed by plantation builders.

By the beginning of the Second World War it survived only in the most remote mountains and forests, and today, the last four or five live on the brink of extinction in a remote region.

The government and the World Wildlife Fund have mounted a determined effort to save the tigers and their environment. And to do so, the authorities are even prepared to relocate a few thousand humans. But Meru Betiri is not simply a tiger reserve. Wildlife of all kinds abounds, like black panthers, leopards and turtles.

Temples

Between Surabaya and Malang is the town of Singosari where remnants of the early 13th century Singosari Kingdom include a temple and two gigantic statues of guardians to what many believed to be the main gateway to the capital of the kingdom. Jago temple dates back to 1268, and is one of the most attractive temples in East Java. Scenes from folk-tales as well as from the Mahabarata epic decorate the side panels.

Kidal temple, not far from Jago temple, was completed in 1260 to honor one of the kings, and is a gem of Singosari temple art.

Located 120 km south west of Malang and 11 km north of Blitar, is Penataran temple in the Singosari- Majapahit temple complex, dating from the mid fourteenth century. Its structures are laid on a vast field.

The temple terraces are decorated with Ramayana bas relieves. The main temple is well preserved.

Pasir Putih Beach, Situbondo

If you happen to be driving in a private car between Surabaya and Bali, this lovely beach may be worth visiting for a few hours or, if you prefer, an overnight stay to relax after driving long hours coming from either way. For you to enjoy here is fishing, sailing, swimming, snorkeling, wind-surfing, water-skiing or just simply sunbathing. Good seafood is available at some beach-front restaurants where nearby small souvenirs are for sale.

This place is suitable for transiting tourists, rather than a destination point.

Mount Ijen Crater

Not exactly the most accessible of all craters, this Ijen crater may become of great interest to the adventurous tourist. It is located far enough from Bali as well as from Surabaya, whereas an overnight stay is recommended either at Banyuwangi if coming from Bali or at Bondowoso if coming from Surabaya. The trip to the crater should start early in the morning the next day because road accessibility only gets you up to 14 km from the crater which you have to do on foot, and up-hill for that matter.

Special about this crater is its wide gaping mouth having a diameter of 1 km, whereas its depth all the way to the bottom is 175 meters, where a turquoise lake is found with its impressive surroundings.

Ponorogo

Ponorogo is located southwest of Surabaya at a distance of 200 km. A bigger town closest to it is Madiun, which lies on the main highway between Surabaya and points west of it in Central Java. So, out of Madiun it would be a side trip to Ponorogo, if you care to witness the Festival Reyog, held here on the 17th of August each year, highlighting the area’s traditional drama and dance. Otherwise you may want to visit Ngebel Lake nearby. Batiks and basketry of this region are also well-known.